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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:43 pm 
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Hi all, bit of a long shot here.

I am currently renovating a 1980's BSA bike just for a bit of fun. Was an ebay bargain at just £31.

Anyway, despite it's remarkable condition for it's age and originality in parts, there are just a small number of paint chips and surface rust spots.

I've cleared them up using the good old tin foil trick but now want to touch them up. Spray cans tend to spray all over the place so I was looking at purchasing a cheap airbrush people use for model making.

My question is, does anyone know if you can put pretty much any model paint in them that you would normally purchase in small pots, or do they require specialist paints? Remember, I'm only looking at touching up spots just a few millimetres in size.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 6:04 pm 
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The problem may come when you paint over what is probably cellulose. It may lift the original paint. Bikes like the C15 (ss80) and Victor were cellulose, Starfire and Bandit may well have been acrylic, but early 2 part.

Unless you want 100% original, enamelling or powder dip is the way to go. Expensive, but only done once. If you want to spray, you can make a very serviceable set from the compressor from a freezer ( even a domestic one ) there are many youtube vids, but you do not even need to go as far as having a storage tank if you just use an air brush at low pressure.Model makers air brush is very limited though

I have a compressor that came with a kit of about 20 accessories from Aldi for around £80 and it is excellent. They still have them from time to time now.
Very useful for driving sanders and grinders and high speed wire brush.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 6:24 pm 
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You can probably get around the problem that moby talks about in terms of new paints lifting the original by using one of the newer water based automotive paints.

They work well through an airbrush and with a good clear coat hold up well. I restored a '78 Kawaski about 10 years ago and used water based paint through an airbrush for the gas tank, side covers, bikini fairing, and chin scoop.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:15 pm 
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Thanks. I'm only after touching up tiny scratches, normally only a few mm in size. Not a frame repaint

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:22 pm 
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Asphalt_World wrote:
Thanks. I'm only after touching up tiny scratches, normally only a few mm in size. Not a frame repaint



You can get touch up " pens " like ink markers to just dab on spots.


@RaggedMan. The Quacker would have been a baked finish and ionised spray, the BSA probably a hand held gun spray with cellulose paint. Sometimes they cover OK, but sometimes the adhesion chemicals of modern paint creep under a slightly lifted boundary area of the old style paint and lift it like a little "flap" and that falls off too.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 5:22 pm 
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moby wrote:
Asphalt_World wrote:
Thanks. I'm only after touching up tiny scratches, normally only a few mm in size. Not a frame repaint



You can get touch up " pens " like ink markers to just dab on spots.


@RaggedMan. The Quacker would have been a baked finish and ionised spray, the BSA probably a hand held gun spray with cellulose paint. Sometimes they cover OK, but sometimes the adhesion chemicals of modern paint creep under a slightly lifted boundary area of the old style paint and lift it like a little "flap" and that falls off too.

Fair enough. I don't have any experience with cellulose paints, so I was thinking that maybe the lack of thinners would be less harsh with a water based paint.

The original paint wasn't much of a concern for me with that Kawi because I had to take the tank pretty much to bare metal. The kid I bought it from had rattle canned it with that awful color shifting paint (purple to turd brown), didn't clear it, then left a big hand print when trying to wipe it off when he spilled gas all over.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 9:16 pm 
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RaggedMan wrote:
moby wrote:
Asphalt_World wrote:
Thanks. I'm only after touching up tiny scratches, normally only a few mm in size. Not a frame repaint



You can get touch up " pens " like ink markers to just dab on spots.


@RaggedMan. The Quacker would have been a baked finish and ionised spray, the BSA probably a hand held gun spray with cellulose paint. Sometimes they cover OK, but sometimes the adhesion chemicals of modern paint creep under a slightly lifted boundary area of the old style paint and lift it like a little "flap" and that falls off too.

Fair enough. I don't have any experience with cellulose paints, so I was thinking that maybe the lack of thinners would be less harsh with a water based paint.

The original paint wasn't much of a concern for me with that Kawi because I had to take the tank pretty much to bare metal. The kid I bought it from had rattle canned it with that awful color shifting paint (purple to turd brown), didn't clear it, then left a big hand print when trying to wipe it off when he spilled gas all over.



The worst of all are Italian 60's and 70's bikes. Often the whole thing has to go back to bare metal. Takes for ever. x(


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